- In 2020, I decided to buy and live on a boat without any sailing experience.
- I taught myself a lot and have since explored France, Italy and parts of the Mediterranean.
- While living on a boat has been quite affordable for me, I’ve mostly spent my savings.
In 2020, I was lying in bed in Torquay, England, trying to figure out what to do with my life.
My mum just died and I decided living in the UK after Brexit wasn’t for me.
Before returning to the UK to look after him, I had lived in California for 27 years, working as a photographer and filmmaker. But given the evolving political situation on that side of the pond, I was reluctant to return there either.
Not feeling any connection to any particular place, I turned to the sea and decided to buy a motor boat even though I had no sailing experience.
For my first trip, I wanted to go all the way through France to the Mediterranean – it looked like it would be scenic. I consulted some professionals who told me that I needed a boat low enough to fit under the bridges of France, but powerful enough to handle the Mediterranean Sea.
Finally, I dipped into my savings to buy a 1987 Birchwood TS37.
I have spent the last 4 years taking my boat around France and Italy
The author found that driving on the high seas was easier than navigating the canals. Stephen J. Payne
Three weeks after purchasing my wonderful ship, the COVID-19 pandemic hit and my travel plans were put on hold. During this time, I got to know my boat a little better and practiced sailing, going up and down the Thames.
By June 2021, I was ready to face the high seas and cross the English Channel to France. I filled up with fuel, left Ramsgate and headed for Calais.
It was challenging, but driving through open water was easier than navigating narrow canals and rivers.
In open water, I could set the autopilot to keep the boat going in the right direction, which is not possible on French waterways, where I will probably bump into other boats or docks.
Some canals and waterways were narrow. Stephen J. Payne
After a few weeks, I arrived in Paris in a beautiful marina near the Bastille, where I spent only about 40 euros a night to dock with some great neighbors.
I had planned to stay here for a week, but it was so nice that I ended up staying six.
I spent a lot of time on my boat. Stephen J. Payne
Then I slowly worked my way around the Cote d’Azur.
Cruising through France was somewhat affordable and the people I met were so friendly that I stayed for a year.
I had access to the wonderful French waterways for just €126 a month, paid to Voies navigables de France, the navigation authority that manages them.
I spent almost 90% of my time avoiding marinas as there were plenty of apps to help me find free places to drop my anchor. Several villages across France had nice places for me to moor my boat for free – some included access to power and water.
If the weather looked bleak I would put myself in a nearby marina as most of the local ones only cost me around 25 euros a night.
At one point, the author stopped in Saint-Omer, France. Stephen J. Payne
Eventually I started working my way around Italy’s Amalfi Coast, stopping in Livorno, Fiumicino, Capri and Tropea.
I then continued to Malta, where I have been for the past 18 months.
I don’t know what’s next, but I’m still enjoying living on a boat
I have taken my boat down many waterways. Stephen J. Payne
Throughout my journey, I’ve made money doing small jobs as a photographer, but mostly spent my savings.
I have found many cheap marinas and living on a boat has not cost me as much as I thought.
Every now and then, I’ll watch an old video I made for YouTube and wonder how I went from working as a photographer in Los Angeles to living on a boat, sailing around the Mediterranean.
But then I remember that I have to spend over $1,000 to replace one of my boat’s pumps, and it all seems very real.
I’m still not sure why I decided to buy a boat and sail around the world – and I don’t know what happens next. For now, though, I’m in the Mediterranean with as little stress as possible.